Summer is a wonderful time to explore the northern half of France, from the Loire River to the Normandy Beaches, generally the weather is mild, and without the excessive heat so often found in the south.
What could be finer than to immerse oneself in French history, to be inspired by the rich patrimony of the grand castles, explore local vinyeards and search for French antiques in brocantes?
We took a break from the summer heat of Paris for a few days and headed south to the Loire Valley.
I'll share with you two of the most inspiring châteaux I visited whilst there; Chambord and Villandry and would love to know your favourites, tell me in the comments. On previous holidays, I visited Amboise (where Leonardo da Vinci is buried) and Chenonceau, both of which are not to be missed!
Château Chambord
Only two hours drive from Paris, Chambord was built (commencing in 1519) by the dashing young King François I, the quintissential Renaissance man, as a symbol of his power, wealth and vision. It centred around the impressive central double helix staircase inspired by Leonardo da Vinci.
The famous double helix staircase
Topped by an impressive dome, you step out onto the château roof terrace and the skyline and views are breathtaking.
The castle is not well furnished as originally it was more of a hunting lodge on a very grand scale, the architecture impressed rather than the soft furnishings!
Further generations of owners made adjustments to make it more homely, but its grand and impressive not cosy! We loved the little details, like the hinges in the shape of an F, King François' momogram and his salamander motif were used everywhere.
The details in the château were fascinating, can you see the graffiti is from 1655?
How to get the most from your visit:
What worked for us was to buy tickets on line in advance and then arrive just before it opened to be one of the first few inside the castle. We headed straight for the double helix staircase, and went right up to the top. We were alone on the amazing roof for about 15 minutes, soaking in the architecture and the views.
Then you can work your way down from the top and enjoy all the other spiral staircases and galleries, with perhaps a coffee break in the courtyard.
One of the smaller spiral staircases
The grounds are worth exploring and you can take a boat on the moat or a golf buggy which is great especially after scampering up and down spiral staircases all morning!
There is a silver service restaurant on the estate, but most of the catering is a row of cafés and they were crowded so we found a sweet little bar brasserie in a local village, although the town of Blois is nearby with plenty of cafés and restaurants.
Chambord is also the venue for a great antique and brocante fair of 1st May. For more details make sure you're subscribed to my email newsletter from my website QuintessentiallyFrench.com
Château Villandry
Futher along the Loire Valley, near the city of Tours, Villandry is a different type of Château, although construction started in a simiar époque to the Royal Chambord in 1532.
Whereas Chambord is now owned by the French state, Villandry is a family owned château open to the public, it is treasured and carefully cared for by, it seems, a small army of gardeners and staff.
It is best known for the gardens; from an intricate maze to a vast potager, vine covered walks, less formal flower gardens, a lake and woodland, Villandry is a gardener's paradise, and this was my main reason to want to visit.
